Raw or cooked: that is the toss-up. Some vegetables are most commonly eaten raw — cucumbers, lettuce, radishes for example — but they can also be sautéed, braised, or even grilled. I happen to have a fondness for cooked cucumber, which becomes a very different experience when sautéed lightly in a little butter or olive oil, sparked with a splash of white wine vinegar and tossed with a seasonal herb. It’s almost lemony without the vinegar, and the addition of the acid sparks the character without having to add salt. Tarragon is especially great in early spring and my over-wintered pot full is already big and bushy. Its licorice-like grassy flavor is a terrific counterpoint to the cucumber. Serve the warm cucumbers alongside chicken or fish or combine them with steamed potatoes.